Changing these is such a miserable job, you ONLY want to do this once, so don't cheap out! You need 4 of these to do one car, or 2 to do one axle. Changing these is such a miserable job, you ONLY want to do this once! It also fits the rear of Syncro Vanagons, and the VW and !
This kit will do one END of one axle, you need 2 of these to do one axle, and 4 of these to do both axles! There is no longer any chance of the bolt loosening or coming off, which can be a major hassle on the road or out on the dunes! This is also a fantastic product for off road cars, where the constant pounding knocks CV Joint Bolts loose regularly! You'll need 2 of these to do one car. These joints are for Beetle, Superbeetle, Ghia, and Type 3s.
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VW 36mm Rear Axle Nut, Beetle, Super, Ghia, Thing, Type 3 - All, Type 2 1955-63
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Fits your vehicle This product was made to fit the stock. Does not fit This product does not fit the stock. Add to Cart. Call Us Our knowledgable staff can help. Descrip tion. The rear axle nut is slotted for the retaining cotter pin also available below. The rear axle nut is standard threaded and fits the left or right side of through Beetles, through Super Beetles, through Karmann Ghias, through Type 2 Bus models, through Type 3s and through Things.
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VW Type 3 Squareback. Large packages ship FedEx.Rear Brakes and Seals. Please see our overall Discussion of the Braking System. Castle Nut -- Removal and Torque. It's possible for the axle splines to be damaged if the brake drum is allowed to move on the axle -- even fractionally. With a fractionally loose brake drum, ALL the brake components would be "working" in a sideways direction when the drum moves fractionally in cornering. Having the axle nut tight ensures everything lines up as it should when the brakes are applied, and the load is in the DESIGNED direction when braking.
A loose brake drum will also load the axle in a bending motion at the axle bearing when cornering than a tight drum, which will transfer some of the sideways load to the gearbox end of the axle.
Since the axle is about 2 feet long, the leverage of that means the resultant load on the gearbox is quite light compared with the bending load on the outer bearing which is close to the brake drum. In other words -- a tight brake drum dissipates the cornering loads through leverage along the axle, instead of trying to bend the axle at the outer end. If the car has been driven with loose axle nuts, the splines teeth on the drums might become damaged anything which is allowed to move will wear -- that's why this nut needs ft-lbs on it.
When you get the drums off, have a good look at the splines in the drum and on the axle. The edges of the splines should be square shaped -- not rounded. More likely though is excessive wear on the inside of the drum where the brake lining rubs on it.
If this is so, you'll feel a lip around the rubbing surface of the drum, just either side of the rubbing area of the brake linings. If this lip is tiny, and drums can be turned machined to remove a thin layer of metal across the rubbing area and square things up again. If the drums have large wear lips, or deep scoring around the rubbing area, replacing them is a good idea anyway. If it's loose, the bearings wiggle around and the hub in the brake drum moves marginally on the shaft, causing wear.
Thus the need for the castle nut to be very tight. Someone wrote - The castle nut on the brake drum needs to be tightened ft-lb of torque according to specs. I just put it on loosely, slipped the cotter pin through, and that was it.
I marked my nuts and axles before I took them off the very first time about 26 years ago so I could line up the marks when reinstalling the castle nut and thus not have to measure the torque. Then check the castellations and holes -- line it up with one or other hole by tightening a little more. It won't matter if its or ft-lbs -- so long as it's TIGHT and the pin will go through the axle. The holes in the axle are set so the torque is about right anyway.
Rob - If your cheater pipe is 18" long, you will have to exert lbs on it to get ft-lb on the castle nut. If it is 4-ft, you will only have to exert 54 lbs -- LOTS easier. And sometimes to "break" the nut loose you have to exert more.And, sighing, I got out the tools and began the task of replacing the axle seal—what else could it be?2019 ap chemistry free response answers
It definitely was not brake fluid. Some people get a dab onto the forefinger and by rubbing between forefinger and thumb can sense what type of fluid they are dealing with. Sure enough…after getting into the bowels of the axle, it was a leaking seal. I fetched a new seal pack from my supplies. After cleaning things well and making sure that I had not polluted the new brake shoes, I installed the new seal and buckled up the wheel.
Frustration reigned. I called my trusted VW mechanic and cried a bit on his bony shoulder. Now not all mechanics will reveal their trade secrets. Barry is different. So, he spilled his guts. Through yearVWs have sported a single-piece axle which is connected to the transmission.
The axle is encased in a tube which bolts to the transmission housing and to the spring plate structure at the outer—wheel end. Tranny fluid courses at will inside this tube, lubricating the wheel bearing. Through yearVolkswagen installed a bearing cover onto VWs into which the seal had been pressed into the outer surface. If the seal failed, and ultimately it would wear out, the transmission fluid seepage would exit around the axle and out into the drum.
This seepage would transfer to the brake shoes reducing braking power and building a greasy glaze inside the drum and on the shoes. The truth of the matter is, these drums are no longer available. Some, like my VW friend who has a restored Beetle, are fortunate to have a viable set of rear drums, set up as they were meant to operate.
VW decided to amend the situation. Engineers had been at work to solve the problem of seepage, wanting to simplify the mechanics of the matter. And, like most improvements, simplification usually also means cost-cutting.
Beetle torque specs 1966-1969
Rather than to install the seal into the outer portion of the bearing cover, they devised a new bearing cover designed to be a self-contained unit. The hole on the outer surface of the bearing cover, which we see when we remove the drum, is just small enough so that the slinger washer cannot escape. The inner diameter of the washer is just larger than the diameter of the axle itself. Now, instead of pressing the seal into the bearing cover from the outside, the seal was pressed into the inner recess, holding the slinger captive.
A side note here: New slinger washers are no longer available. These can be obtained from salvage yards. Remember—the slinger was used from through This helps to make supplies of used slingers available.If that pin is not in place, your back wheel will fall off. The rear hub nut torque settings on a Renault Clio should be set at Nm this is what holds the disc in place. Mrs Smith has nine children half of them are girls.
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VW Beetle Type 1. Top Answer. Wiki User Related Questions. What is the torque value for a ford focus rear wheel hub nut? What are the rear hub nut torque settings on a Renault clio? What is rear hub nut torque crv? Hub t spindle-nut: ft lbs. What is the rear axle hub nut torque on a landrover p38?Forebet aujourd hui
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Days went by and I found no significant info other than the aforementioned pounds. Meanwhile, my other car broke and I had to take out the Jetta in a rush, so I forgot to loosen the axle nuts. Within a few kilometers I got this bearing noise, then I remembered that I had not loosen the nuts, but I had to keep going as my daughter was waiting for me at school.
I came back home with a pair of ruined bearings. Then and only then I found a thread explaining that the pounds is just to "set" the new bearings in place and then the nut should be loosened, give the wheel a full rotation, then re-torque to 37 pounds plus 30 degrees.
I replaced the passenger's side bearing today and followed that procedure. The new bearing is now perfect, makes no noise. I still have to replace the driver's side, as it is also ruined. I wanted to share this story, so that this will not happen to anyone else.
In a nutshell, tighten the nut to pounds my electric impact gun does pounds max, so I just drove the nut in to where it would not go any morethen loosen the nut, give the wheel a full revolution, then re-torque to 37 pounds.
At this point, switch to a breaker bar and tighten the nut another 30 degrees. Install the remainder of components rotor, caliper, wheel sensor and you're done.
If this helps just one person, it will even out my loss. Ive had both my axle nuts loosen following the bently torque procedure. Put an air gun on it and tighten the heck out of it. Lots of threads on here about just tightening with an air gun and no looking back.
Wheel Torque Chart
Has anyone checked to see what torque the Bentley procedure ends up giving? I realize it'll likely vary a bit, but there's got to be some general ball-park number.Diy usb foot pedal
TDI s : Jetta Wagon. Originally Posted by RacerTodd. You can't ruin the bearing being too tight because the bearing races but against each other acting as a stop, but too loose, they are done quickly.
I just have my impact gun on full torque, bam, done. It seems the bearing needs to seat properly with a little vibration, an impact would vibrate it accordingly, but if you don't have one Hammer down until it no longer turns. Drive around a bit then try the impact again. I've used this method on the front and rear of my car and on several others.
Go to of this video and learn the correct way to do it. TDI s : Golf 1. TDI s : New Beetle manual.User Name Remember Me? Torque for front axle nut? How much should I torque the front axle nut? I finally got my new Re: Torque for front axle nut?
Bently has the spec. Whatever you do don't move the car, Bentley says to not even put any weight on itwithout torquing down the nut!
Rear VW Axle Maintenance
Tightening torque:. I'll give it a try. Dont forget to tighten down 37ft lbs before turning 60 degrees. I found that 37 ft pounds takes you back degrees. Then try to get that 60 degrees is more than ft lbs. I think they use degrees because most torque wrenches max out at ft lbs or newton meters. Svante Arrhenius Cogito ergo soy I think, therefore: Biodiesel. Hammer down until it stops turning seems to work just fine. Originally Posted by jimquatmann. Find More Posts by scurvy.1999 ford f250 fuse panel diagram diagram base website panel
Do it according to bently spec and itll be loose in a couple days. Just reef on it, cant damage the bearing. If you want to go through the trouble of doing your bearing again then crank that old nut down and distort the bearing races.
If you want it done properly then torque a New hub nut to spec. The nyloc in the new nut will make sure you get the correct torque without backing off. You'll strip the threads off the stub before you will be able to deform those bearing races. In the case of the bolt style, the bolts elongate loooooong before then.
Had to beat the bajeezus out of mine to get the old axles out of the hubs, so if anything that will be what wrecked the bearings if they do fail. As an aside, I remember reading here that you need different hubs to use the bolt style outer CV joints.
Mine seemed to fit just fine, but they were takeouts from a '13 jetta and a '10 tiguan. Follow the torque spec people. The nut wasn't completely loose but it just kept spinning while trying to remove.
In this situation it could have been a life threatening disaster and we got lucky. No wonder other brands use a cotter pin. We opted to replace the whole axle, but could have replaced just the CV joint. All times are GMT The time now is TDI Club Cards.
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